Having spent two weeks in Istanbul, we're finally getting back on the road today, heading east along Turkey's Black Sea coast. Istanbul has proved an interesting, if at times frustrating experience. It is very firmly on the tourist map, with the main Sultanahmet district bristling with hostels, hotels and guesthouses, all scattered in amongst impressive mosques and old buildings. Centuries of rule by various empires including the Greeks, Byzantines, Latins and Ottomans give the city a fascinating history with a large range of influences. There are many beatiful sights including the 6th century Hagia Sofia, the uses of which have ranged from church, mosque and now museum, the famous Blue Mosque and the magnificent Topkapi Palace. The setting on the Bosphorus, dividing Europe and Asia, has given the city great strategic importance over the ages, and today huge tankers and freight ships can be seen travelling up and down from the Black Sea to the Mediterranean. (copyright Lonely Planet 2003).

The downside of Istanbul's tourist popularity is the legions of restauranteurs, carpet sellers, perfume sellers etc that line every street trying to promote their wares with varying degrees of insistence. We are well used to being the centre of attention when we are with our bikes, but it was initially something of a let down to have the geniality and genuine interest replaced with a more cynical, false friendliness serving only to get you into their shop. After a while though we got used to it and were able to entertain ourselves by finding ever more ludicrous excuses as to why we couldn't buy any of their carpets. Of course there are also genuinely friendly people as well, who we enjoyed talking to - it's just a shame that you end up slightly wary of everybody until you can accurately judge their intentions. Special hello to Jason (not his real name but he said we wouldn't be able to pronounce his Turkish name!), who we met on the ferry coming back from a trip to the Uzbek consulate, and met up with again the next day. We might well give you a call if we get into any trouble later on! We also got to know a few of the local restaurant staff - hello to Cadir, who we stopped to chat to every time we went to and from the hostel. (He also does an excellent Iskender Kebab). Last but not least all the chaps at the Orient Hostel, especially 'Party Boy' Metin, who having learnt English from listening to travellers in the hostel bar, now speaks in a drunk Australian accent.

Istanbul also saw our first meetings with other cyclists; Stefan and Anja who had cycled from Munich, and Simon who had cycled from London via a different route to ours and is on his way to Iran. It was interesting to compare our experiences and see somewhat different approaches to the idea of cycle touring!

Following a few visits from parents and other groupies bringing much needed supplies of maps, bike parts and clean underpants, both us and our bikes are raring to go, and we are much looking forwards to crossing the Bosphorus and finally getting onto Asian soil.